Boat Conversion
Basic Utility Boat Transformed into a Walleye Dream Boat

by John Correll
john@correllconcepts.com
Published: October 2007
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FIG. 1 — BEFORE: 3/2006              FIG. 2 — AFTER: 6/2006

For nearly a dozen years I'd been mentally constructing my ideal walleye boat. Whenever I was fishing I'd make mental note of what I liked and disliked about the boat I was in. Whenever I saw a new boat I'd study it to discover things to include in my imagined boat.

And while doing this I scoured boat shows and magazines — looking for the real boat that exactly matched my dream boat. But I never found it. Every rig — no matter how loaded — lacked certain features that I wanted. And, worse yet, included things that I didn't want.

Plus the really nice boats became ridiculously priced. In 1990 one could buy a great walleye rig for about $12,000. Now, it takes $35,000 … and more.

Then, one day in January 2006, a radical concept flashed through my brain. The concept was: Buy a "basic shell" of a boat — that is, a bare-bones utility boat — then transform this basic boat into the walleye rig of my dreams.

What I ended up purchasing was a Lund SSV-18 — a basic riveted-aluminum utility boat (FIG. 1).  I then transformed it into exactly what I wanted — my ideal walleye boat (FIG. 2).

Here's how it happened.

Guiding Objectives
Before buying the basic boat I defined what I wanted to accomplish with it. In doing this I decided that I wanted this boat to be (1) storable at home, (2) easy to tow, (3) easy to maintain, (4) affordably priced, and most important (5) adaptable into a highly productive walleye-pike-bass fishing rig. To achieve the last objective the boat had to be able to accommodate up to four persons and still afford decent, comfortable fishing for each. The challenge before me was to find a basic boat that satisfied all five objectives.

Basic Boat Features
I then defined the characteristics that this boat must have in order to achieve my guiding objectives. What emerged is the following features list.

Length: 18 to 19 feet. REASONS FOR THIS LENGTH: (a) To enable fishing up to four persons comfortably (with the right seating). (b) To enable it to be stored behind my house. (I've stored a boat in a storage yard before. Too many inconveniences.)

Beam: Under seven feet. REASON: To allow for a narrow trailer which, in turn, makes for easy towing and turning; less worrying about trailer wheels running "out-of-lane." (In the past 15 years walleye boats have gotten wider and wider, up to a ridiculous eight and a half foot beam. What I wanted was just the opposite: a streamlined boat.)

Weight: Relatively light. REASONS: (a) To enable the boat to reach reasonably fast speeds with a fairly small motor. (b) To enable easy towing with a medium-size tow vehicle. I wanted my total rig — trailer, boat, motor, equipment — to be under 2000 pounds.

Hull Material: Aluminum. REASONS: (a) To avoid worrying about scratching fiberglass on the rocks of the Canadian shield (my favorite fishing grounds). (b) To make for easy maintenance. (c) To provide relatively light weight for easy towing with a medium-size tow vehicle. (d) To enable easy do-it-yourself customizing (an essential).

Mode of Steering: Tiller. REASONS: (a) To enable more-precise boat control, especially in rapids. (b) To provide maximum unimpeded fishable space in the boat – so it could take up to four persons and still provide a good fishing experience for each. (Note: I'd concluded that remote, or steering wheel, steering is great when making a long, full-speed run. But I spend less than five percent of my time doing long runs. The remaining 95 percent I spend fishing. And, for this, a tiller is tops — in my opinion. It provides maximum fishing ease, versatility, and space. To the point, a properly-configured 18-foot tiller boat provides the same amount of "fishing space" as a 22-foot remote steering console boat.)

Type of Gas Tank: Remote — meaning, above-floor. REASON: To allow for centerline seat placement along the entire length of the boat. (Note: an integrated tank is usually located under a floorboard along the centerline of the boat. This, in turn, prevents optimal centerline seat placement in that section).

Bow Configuration: Has a board at the bow tip. REASON: To enable easy installation of a bow-mount trolling motor.

Person & Gear Capacity: At least 1200 pounds. REASON: To enable the boat to safely carry up to four persons and gear.

Basic Boat Evaluation Process
Over the years I'd amassed a small library of boat catalogs. With the above feature list in mind I began looking through them to pick out the most suitable boat. I made a list of "contenders for consideration." It included the Crestliner Canadian 18, Princecraft Hudson, Lund Alaskan 18, and Lund SSV-18. I then visited dealers to closely examine each one. This included snapping digital photos, taking key measurements, and peering into all compartments. (Yes, the camera caused some head-scratching by boat salesmen. One remarked, "You're the first I've seen to go boat shopping with a camera.") In the end I concluded that the Lund SSV-18 best met my objectives and desired features. I then checked several dealers for price. It ranged from $4500 to $3999 (January 2006).

NOTE: Lund updated the SSV-18 in 2006. It included several modifications that make the boat a bit more fisherman-friendly than the pre-2006 boat.

Finished Boat Features
While searching for the basic boat I crystallized in my mind what I wanted the "finished product" to be like. This resulted in a list of dream features. I used this list to guide the design and customizing process. Here's what I wanted for my finished boat … and why.

Centerline Seating the Entire Length of the Boat. This was my #1 priority. My biggest gripe about many walleye boats is that they have only one or, at most, two centerline positioned seats. The rest are "off-center seats." I hate off-center seating for three reasons. First, it makes for a listing boat. Second, a person seated in an off-center seat can't pivot 360 degrees. Or, can't comfortably fish either side of the boat. Third, off-center seating often results in left-and-right side-by-side seats. This arrangement makes it hard for a boatload of three or four fishermen to "work a shoreline" together (my favorite fishing style). This is because left-and-right side-by-side seating puts one person behind another person when fishing a shoreline. MY SOLUTION: I installed six seat bases along the centerline of the boat (FIG. 3).

FIG. 3 — Total 10 Seat Bases — Six of Them Centerline Bases
(also shown are three elevated seats in "fishing position")

Elevated Seats Front, Middle, and Rear. Elevated seating makes for an improved fishing experience. However, most walleye boats have only one elevated seat. It's located on the front bow deck. This is the seat used by the trolling motor operator. Everyone else in the boat is relegated to regular seating — that is, to a pedestal seat sitting on the lower floor. This isn't good. MY SOLUTION: I installed a second elevated seat base on the front bow. Plus, I installed elevated seats in the middle and rear, as well. This enables three, and even four, guys to fish from an elevated seat. FIG. 3 shows three elevated seats — front, middle, and rear. (Note: for safety reasons a person shouldn't ride in elevated seating above 5 mph. So, for traveling fast, passengers in my boat pull out the pedestal and drop the seat into a lower-level seat base. This takes only seconds. Or, if we're only going a short distance, they leave the elevated seats in place and just sit on a bench seat for a couple minutes or so.

Multiple Seat Arrangement Options; Speedy Seat Repositioning. Another gripe I have is that (a) seat arrangement options in most boats are limited and (b) seat repositioning tends to be hard to do. So I decided to do two things. First, provide enough seat bases to allow for multiple seat arrangement options. Second, use "quick-change" seat hardware. MY SOLUTIONS: To create multiple seat arrangement options I installed 10 seat bases (FIG. 3). For quick repositioning I went with non-threaded kingpin style seat bases and pedestals (FIG. 3B). This allows a person to easily reposition a seat in seconds … to any of several locations throughout the boat.

FIG. 3B — Non-threaded Kingpin-style Seating Allows for Quick, Easy Seat Repositioning - (SHOWN: 7"x7" stainless steel seat base - 13" aluminum pedestal - stainless steel seat mount without spring)

Capability to Fish Four Persons Comfortably. Many guys fish with just one other person. But I fish with my brothers. And I have five of them. So a typical outing can have three or four persons in the boat. In my research I discovered that the seating arrangement in many walleye boats is great if you have just two fishermen. But it's awful when you go to three or four. Even some of the biggest, most expensive boats are this way. It's not that these boats lack seat bases to hold four persons. Rather, the problem is that when four persons are actually seated in the boat, two of the guys are seated in lousy fishing positions. That is, they're seated off-center. Or, they're seated so close together that they're crowding one another. MY SOLUTION: I positioned the seat bases such that four persons could sit on the centerline of the boat with no less than 42 inches between pedestals.

Huge Storage Capacity. One of my pet peeves while fishing is tripping over gear whenever I stand or move … and also not having a place to put my feet while sitting. So, maximum storage capacity is a high priority with me. I wanted enough storage to be able to "clear the deck" of gear … even with four persons fishing. MY SOLUTION: I did three things to maximize storage.

FIRST, I converted the front six feet of the boat into a cavernous under-deck bow storage compartment by installing a bow deck (FIG. 4). This compartment consists of two areas: (1) a small triangular area at the front and (2) a huge rearward main area. The front area is accessed via a watertight hatch cover in the floor. It's the dry storage. The main area is accessed by opening a 3-foot wide x 3-foot long section of the deck (see below).

FIG. 4 — Under-deck Bow Storage Compartment - (under the piece of green carpet are one starting battery and two trolling motor batteries — a large plastic tub with lid sits in the center of this compartment, and a plastic tray sits on top of that, shown in FIG. 7 - such tubs are found in Wal-mart, Lowes, etc.)

SECOND, I installed a hinged floorboard in each of the middle and rear sections of the boat (FIGS. 5, 5B). Each floor lifts to expose an under-floor storage area of about 48 inches x 36 inches x 5 inches deep (on average). These compartments mainly hold items that see little use.

FIG. 5 — Under-floor Storage Compartment — Middle Section - (this compartment is relatively empty in the photo)

FIG. 5B — Under-floor Storage Compartment — Rear Section

THIRD, I installed storage netting around the perimeter of the middle and rear sections. Each net forms a storage "compartment" between the net and the side of the boat (FIG. 6). This "compartment" holds ample gear and clothing articles for instant access. There are a total of four of these storage compartments in the boat (two each side). Each includes a vinyl rain flap that can be positioned over the contents during rain.

FIG. 6 — Net-created Side Storage Compartment (with vinyl rain flap)

In total, the storage capacity of the boat is huge for its size (FIG. 7). This, in turn, enables four guys to fish and still have ample open floor space for standing and moving.

FIG. 7 — Three Large Under-floor Storage Compartments

Dry Storage Compartment. In addition to large storage capacity it's nice to have a bit of dry storage, as well. MY SOLUTION: I configured the front area of the bow storage compartment into dry storage (FIG. 8). This was done by using a piece of sheet vinyl (same material as used for the flooring). The vinyl was formed into a leak-proof basket that has the contour of the front compartment. Thus, anything stored in this leak-proof basket in the front compartment is separated from any water elsewhere in the boat. The entrance to this compartment is a plastic water-resistant hatch in the floor above.

FIG. 8 — Dry Storage "Basket" at Bow Point - (basket made of floor vinyl — a watertight floor hatch is above, not shown in photo)

Battery Storage in the Front. In my opinion many walleye boats today are too "rear heavy" (or, conversely, too "front light"). The result is that the boat (a) takes longer to get up on plane, (b) sits low in the water at the transom, which makes the boat more prone to over-the-transom waves while backtrolling, (c) undergoes excessive front-end wave pounding at high speed, and (d) sits non-level in the water while fishing. This last condition is especially irksome. It results in passengers sitting on an angled, or tilted, seat all day. MY SOLUTION: Position the batteries up front. I equipped this boat with one starting and two trolling motor batteries. They total 148 pounds. I installed this 148 pound load in the front bow storage compartment (FIGS. 4 and 9). This results in a level-sitting boat while fishing, and one that cuts through wave chop at top speed with amazing smoothness.

FIG. 9 — Three Batteries and Charger (lower right) in Front Storage Compartment - (normally the batteries are covered with a piece of carpet, as shown in FIG. 4)

Bow-mount 24 volt Auto-pilot Trolling Motor. Many walleye boats are rigged with transom-mount trolling motors. The reason, of course, is to facilitate backtrolling. However, in the type of fishing I mainly do (bass and pike casting), a bow-mount motor works out better. Also, auto-pilot is a helpful feature. Further, I use my trolling motor extensively — that is, all day long. So I decided to go with 24 volt (versus 12 volt) for longer battery run-time. MY SOLUTION: I installed a 24 volt Minn Kota Powerdrive 70PD/AP. It's rated at 70 pounds thrust. Due to the SSV-18's light weight, it propels the boat with ease. Which enables easy boat control in any wind and water condition.

Dual Sonars. I've found that the people I fish with like to stay informed on water depth and "what's down there." When there's only one sonar in a boat it forces guys to keep asking "what's the depth." Or, to keep turning around to look at the sonar at the opposite end of the boat. MY SOLUTION: I installed dual sonars – one front, one rear. To prevent interference between the sonars I purchased units having different kilohertz frequencies. The front unit is a Humminbird 727. It operates at 83 and 200 kilohertz. The rear unit is a Humminbird Matrix 47 3D. It operates at 83 and 455 kilohertz. To eliminate interference between the units, I set the "Beam Select" on the 727 unit to 200 kHz only and the "Beam Select" on the Matrix 47 unit to 445 kHz only. I get zero interference between the sonars. The rear transducer for the front sonar and the transducer for the rear sonar are mounted on opposite corners of the transom, shown below (FIG. 9B).

FIG. 9B — The Transom Sports Dual Mounting Boards to Hold Multiple Transducers and Other Devices

Dual Transducers for Front Sonar. While fishing, the person who needs to be most informed is the one running the trolling motor. MY SOLUTION: To provide maximum info for the trolling motor operator I installed dual transducers for the front sonar. One transducer is attached to the bottom of the trolling motor. The other is attached to the rear left corner of the boat (at the transom). These transducers are connected to an A-B switch (FIG. 10) that, in turn, connects to the sonar unit. The trolling motor person can instantly switch from one transducer to the other with a flip of the A-B switch (mounted next to the sonar).

FIG. 10 — The A–B Switch for the Dual Transducers to Front Sonar

Movable Rear Sonar. I hate having my sonar be hard to read due to sunlight. Or, be positioned where I can't easily view it while fishing. MY SOLUTION: I made the rear sonar movable. To do this I mounted the unit onto a small board and created an umbilical cord, so to speak, that extends to the unit. The umbilical cord contains three wires — power, transducer, speedo wires — encased within a six-foot piece of flexible protective sheathing (i.e., wire loom cover). This enables the rear sonar to be positioned virtually anywhere in the rear half of the boat, including on the middle bench seat, on the rear bench seat, and on the floor (FIG. 11). It works great!

FIG. 11 — Rear Sonar on the Floor Sometimes Is the Most Convenient Viewing Position While Fishing

Easy-access Rod Holders. A cluttered boat bugs me. But a boat with fishing rods laying around (and sticking up) all over, really irks me. Of course many boats have nice under-floor rod lockers. These are great for storing and locking up rods within the boat. But the guys I fish with seem to like having their rods at arms reach, for instant grabbing. MY SOLUTION: I installed easy-access rod holders (FIG. 12) on each side of the boat. Further, there are rod holders both forward and rearward. This rod holding system, while simple, works great. It positions rods out of the way, yet enables instant set-down and pick-up of a chosen rod no matter where you're seated in the boat. Up to a dozen rods can be held this way — six on each side of the boat. My fishing partners like it a lot.

FIG. 12 — Easy-access Rod Holders Front and Rear - (Up to 6 rods can be held this way on each side of the boat)

FIG. 12B — Close-up of Rod Holder — it's mounted on one of the boat's support braces

Vinyl Floor Covering. I debated for months over the floor covering: carpeting or vinyl? I finally decided to go with vinyl. The main reasons were (a) dries quicker; doesn't retain moisture that breeds mildew and mushrooms, (b) cleans easier, and (c) is more durable (carpeting fades and forms wear spots). Plus, if I changed my mind after installing vinyl I could easily switch to carpeting. Or, I could create removable carpet sections. But, once carpeting had been installed I couldn't easily switch to vinyl. However, I've always had one gripe about most boat vinyl: it's a bit cheesy-looking. Then I discovered a vinyl product called Deco Dot (FIG. 13). It looks great (in my opinion). Plus, it cleans easier than regular vinyl. Plus it appears to be more rugged, too.

FIG. 13 — Deco Dot Vinyl Used on Floor

Storage & Placement Strategy
A guiding principle used in the design and customizing process was: "A place for everything, and everything in its place." The objective is to keep the floor of the boat open and free of clutter. This, in turn, makes for easy, efficient, comfortable fishing. Here's some of the key factors involved.

Tackle Storage. A common problem — even with large boats — is having to step over tackle bags and boxes strewn all over the floor. To overcome this problem I planned the boat's layout around the #3700 (or #370) plastic tackle tray. This is the large one that measures 14"x9"x2". Using this particular tray as the tackle storage platform, we can pack a huge amount of tackle in the boat while keeping the floor open and free. Here's how it's done.

FIRST, at the rear of the boat, in the space just in front of the splashwell, I installed a shelf for holding tackle trays (FIG. 14). Here, up to six #3700 (or #370) trays can be neatly stored out of the way yet be handy for quick access (FIG. 15). The trays can be positioned either horizontally or vertically, user's choice.

FIG. 14 — Rear Tackle Tray Compartment - (holds up to six #3700 tackle trays - either horizontal or vertical)

FIG. 15 — Rear Tackle Tray Compartment Filled with 6 Trays - (instead of being layed horizontal, trays could be positioned vertical, if so desired)

SECOND, underneath the elevated middle seat (between the left and right middle bench seats) there's an open space. Here, up to eight #3700 (or #370) trays can be stored out of the way yet be handy for quick access (FIG. 16). Optionally, a third back-up fuel tank can be carried there instead, for a day of extra-long travel.

FIG. 16 — Open Space Under Middle Seat Can Hold Up to Eight #3700 Tackle Trays

THIRD, along the sides of the boat are storage "compartments" created by flexible netting (previously discussed, FIG. 6). Each compartment can easily hold two or three #3700 (or #370) trays, positioned out of the way yet handy for quick access (FIG. 17). NOTE: While storing tackle trays in these side compartments is possible, we seldom have need to do it. Instead, these compartments tend to be used for storing such things as jackets, rolled maps, water bottles in use, and anything else that we desire to "put out of the way."

FIG. 17 — Side Storage Compartment with Three #3700 Tackle Trays

In total, up to twenty five #3700 (or #370) tackle trays can be handily stored out of the way in various compartments around the boat. If further tackle storage is required, tackle trays can be stored in either of the two under-floor storage compartments or in the bow storage area.

Anchor & Safety Equipment Storage. I seldom use an anchor in my style of fishing. However, the U.S. and Canadian Coast Guards require an anchor, along with other safety equipment such as paddle(s), ropes, manual bilge pump, running lights, and other things. I store my paddles in a special spot along the sides of the boat for easy grabbing. Everything else is stored in the under-floor storage compartments.

Rainsuit Storage. Carrying rainsuits can consume a lot of space. Typically I store them either in the large bow storage compartment or in one of the under-floor compartments. When storing them under the floor I put each suit into a small plastic trash bag, first.

Fish & Bait Storage. My boat has no livewell. That's because I practice catch-and-release (FIG. 18). The only time I keep fish is when I'll be eating them (which isn't that often). In this case, I take a cooler with ice and carry my catch on ice. It makes for better-eating fish. I also seldom use live bait, so I don't have a baitwell. If, however, I should ever decide that I needed one, I'd rig up any of the several portable options (sold at Bass Pro, Cabela's, and elsewhere). The same could be done to create a portable livewell.

FIG. 18 — My Reminder Slogan

Fuel Storage. I have two 6-gallon remote fuel tanks. These tanks tuck neatly under the left and right rear bench seats (FIG. 19). I get at least 25 miles per tank, or a total of 50 miles for both. When I need more distance than that (which isn't often), I take a third 6-gallon tank. I carry it in the open space under the elevated middle seat base (between the left and right middle bench seats).

FIG. 19 — A 6-gallon Fuel Tank Tucks Neatly Under Each of the Two Rear Bench Seats

Cooler Placement. I use a medium-size Igloo brand cooler for carrying my sandwiches and water. It happens to fit perfectly in the open space between the left and right rear bench seats.

FIG. 20 — A Medium-size Cooler Fits Neatly in the Space Between the Rear Bench Seats

Landing Net Placement. In addition to walleye and smallmouth bass fishing I also like catching pike. So I carry a fairly large landing net. However, where to carry a large net so that it's out of the way can be a problem. The Lund SSV-18 happens to have a large, full-width splashwell. My net fits nicely in the splashwell (FIG. 21). To make it fit I had to saw a few inches off the end of the handle. But it has an extendable handle with more length than I need, so there's no problem.

FIG. 21 — A Landing Net Fits Nicely in the Splashwell

PFD Placement. The Coast Guard — plus common sense — mandates a personal flotation device (a.k.a. life jacket) for each person in the boat. Ideally, life jackets should be worn. However, they're not comfortable in hot weather. So, the next best thing is to carry them on the seat backs (FIG. 22). This makes them readily available for use. Plus, it frees up valuable storage space that the jackets would consume if stored. To use this tactic, however, one's boat seats must have a fairly high back. I installed the Tempress Navistyle Hi Back seat. One of the reasons I went with this seat is it's amenable to carrying a life jacket over the seat back.

FIG. 22 — Carrying Life Jackets on the Seat Backs Keeps Them Out of the Way But Handy

Spare Rods Placement. I hate hassling with spare fishing rods laying round (and sticking up) all over. To me, for a pleasant fishing experience rods must be stored down low and to the side. Plus, if each rod is secured in the middle or tip it prevents rattling and sliding around during travel. The previously discussed rod holder system (FIGS. 12, 12B) accomplishes all of this.

Other Factors
Construction Materials. To make the floor and bow deck I used 3/8-inch marine plywood. I went with 3/8-inch rather than 1/2-inch for weight reduction. Under each seat base I double-plated with a back-up piece of the 3/8-inch board. It works great. For the underlying support structure of the floor I used extruded aluminum — mainly L-bar. I got this from my local hardware store. For fasteners I went with stainless steel bolts and screws. For nuts I used stainless nylocks. Virtually every metal item in the boat is either aluminum or stainless. It's a bit expensive — but I hate rust. For floor covering I went with Deco Dot vinyl (previously discussed, FIG. 13). Any exposed wood, such as the underside of the floor boards, was sealed with several coats of marine polyurethane.

Bilge Pumps. The boat has two bilge pumps: a manual pump (stored in an under-floor compartment) and a Rule electric pump that I installed at the transom.

Fire Extinguisher. Because the boat has enclosed storage areas I installed the required extinguisher.

Boat Color. The Lund catalog shows the SSV-18 in two color choices: red and tan (or "Fall Marsh"). However, at the time I ordered my boat it was possible for the dealer to special order it in other colors, as well. These included black, white, blue, and green. I chose green. It looks great.

Power Choice
Several years ago I spent ample time fishing with a 50 horsepower tiller four-stroke. I liked it. After that experience I was 100 percent sold on four-stroke. I thought it was the end-all of outboard technology. However, subsequent research changed my mind. I became a believer in DFI (direct fuel injection) two-stroke technology. As it happens, Evinrude is the only major outboard-maker that sells a 60 horsepower two-stroke motor in direct fuel injection. So I purchased an Evinrude E-TEC 60. Two main factors drove the decision.

1) Greater convenience — No oil changes and no oil disposal required — Fewer scheduled maintenance sessions required — 2-minute self-winterizing.

2) Full horsepower — Actual horsepower of four-stroke motors has tended to be less than the stated horsepower, whereas actual horsepower of two-stroke motors tends to be at or above the stated horsepower.

Also, Evinrude provides an excellent fisherman-friendly tiller handle (FIG. 23). It's extra-long and it includes a thumb-controllable trim button at the end of the throttle grip, an easy-reach forward-positioned gear shift handle, and forward-positioned start and shut-off buttons. (In the spirit of candid disclosure, Yamaha also has a nicely-designed tiller handle.)

(NOTE: If you seek more info on E-TEC features and technology I would suggest that you contact a knowledgeable dealer. The most knowledgeable person on this product that I've come across is Dave Zammitt of Lockeman's Hardware & Boats — Phone: 313-842-0268.)

FIG. 23 — Extra-long Fisherman-friendly Tiller Handle Puts All Controls Within Easy Reach

Close-ups of the Finished Boat
To convey the big picture, here are photos of the finished boat in three sections — front, middle, rear (FIGS. 24, 25, 26).

FIG. 24 — Front

FIG. 25 — Middle

FIG. 26 — Rear

Specs & Details
In case you're one who likes the nitty-gritty, here's some details.

Total Weight of Finished Rig — The entire rig — trailer, finished customized boat, motor, equipment, fuel — tips the scale at around 1800 pounds.

Basic Boat — Model: Lund SSV-18 — Length: 18'4" — Beam: 76" — Transom height: 20" — Weight (as purchased): 460 lbs — Weight capacity: 1500 lbs — Maximum horsepower rating: 60 hp (max hp rating for Canada is 50) — Construction type: Riveted aluminum — Bottom type: Shallow-V (about 4 degrees deadrise) — Fuel storage: Two remote 6-gallon tanks (purchased separately) — Steering: Tiller (optional side console steering available)

Trailer — EZ Loader, galvanized steel

Outboard Motor — Model: Evinrude E-TEC 60 — Horsepower: 60 — Basic technology: DFI (direct fuel injection) two-stroke — Weight: 240 lbs — Steering: Tiller (remote steering available) — Cylinders: Inline 2-cylinder — Displacement: 53 cu. inches — Alternator: 75 amp, with 25 amp dedicated to battery charging — Starting: Electric — Trim: Power trim and tilt

Top Speed — Top speed for the customized fully-loaded boat with Evinrude E-TEC 60 ranges from 31 to 35 mph, dependent on number of persons in the boat.

Running Range — About 25 miles per 6-gallon tank of gas.

Fuel Tanks — Model: Tempo Ultra6 — Capacity: 6.5 gal. — LxWxH: 21.12"x13.5"x9" including cap — Material: Plastic

Trolling Motor — Model: Minn Kota Powerdrive 70PD/AP — bow-mount, 24 volt, 70 lbs thrust, auto-pilot

Front Sonar — Model: Humminbird 727 — kilohertz frequencies: 83 and 200 kHz — connected to dual transducers via an A-B switch; the front transducer being connected to the trolling motor, the rear transducer being attached to the transom

Rear Sonar — Model: Humminbird Matrix 47 3D — kilohertz frequencies: 83 and 455 kHz — connected to a transducer on the transom (opposite corner to the transducer for the front sonar)

Starting Battery (12 volt) — Model: Cabela's Advance Angler AGM — Type: Absorbed glass mat — Size: 22 — Weight: 38.5 lbs — LxWxH: 9.37"x5.5"x9.25" — Marine cranking amps (MCA): 850 — Cold cranking amps (CCA): 670 — Reserve capacity (RC): 95 … NOTE: The dual sonars also run off this battery.

Two Trolling Motor Batteries (12 volt) — Model: Cabela's Advance Angler AGM — Type: Absorbed glass mat — Size: 24 — Weight: 53.5 lbs each — LxWxH: 10.87"x6.75"x9.87" — Marine cranking amps (MCA): 1195 — Cold cranking amps (CCA): 945 — Reserve capacity (RC): 178 ... NOTE: These absorbed glass mat batteries have performed well for me. Plus they have numerous advantages over lead-acid, including lighter weight, totally sealed and leak free, maintenance free, can be mounted in a non-upright position such as on its side, won't freeze so needn't be removed from my boat for the winter, charges fast, and doesn't undergo as much "damage" if deeply discharged or left uncharged. I'm sold on them.

Battery Charger — Model: ProSport 20 Plus — 20 amps, 3 banks (purchased from Bass Pro).

Seats — Model: Tempress Navistyle Hi Back — Colors: Gray/Charcoal

Seating Hardware — Type: Non-threaded Kingpin — Base: Springfield stainless steel 7"x7" non-threaded — Pedestals: Springfield aluminum 11" and 13" non-threaded — Seat mount: Springfield stainless steel without spring … NOTE: I don't use the spring-type seat mounts because the spring chews up the plastic ring on the top of seat bases and pedestals.

Paddles — Type: Lightweight paddle made of aluminum and plastic, with an extendable shaft (purchased from Bass Pro or Cabela's)

Rod Holders — Model: Berkley Deluxe Rod Holder, horizontal style

Storage Nets — Brand: BoatGo storage net — Comes in two lengths: 42" and 52" — why those lengths, I have no idea (purchased from Cabela's)

Floor Covering — Deco Dot vinyl, gray (purchased from Cabela's)

NOTE: My listing of the above brands is not meant to connote that these brands are necessarily the best brands or the only suitable brands. They simply appeared to best suit my personal purposes at the time I was selecting equipment. Others folks may have purposes different from mine, for which other brands and different equipment may be better suited.

Closing Comment
I wrote this article to pass on ideas for how a walleye boat might be improved. I did not write it to suggest that anyone should tackle a complete customization project like this. The amount of time required to do this was about triple what I initially projected. I invested at least six weeks of time. There's more to it than meets the eye, and it's more time-consuming than you might imagine. For it to be worthwhile, I pursued it as a labor of love — a hobby-type pursuit. Had I viewed it as a "quick and easy way to make a walleye boat," I would have been disappointed.

(I'm thinking about writing a sister article to this one. It would be titled A Simple, Great Walleye Boat. It would describe a way to make a nice walleye boat from a Lund SSV-18, but using less time and money than was invested in the boat described in this article.)

For Further Info
If you have a question not answered in this article, or want info pertaining to dealer experiences, you may feel free to contact John Correll at john@correllconcepts.com.

Special Thanks
I extend special thanks to my brother Tom Correll who inspired me to undertake this project and indirectly contributed to its success. In 2002, Tom endeavored to build a walleye boat from scratch — a prodigious undertaking. I worked with him in the planning phase of the project, at which time we had numerous brainstorming discussions. Many of the innovative concepts that we came up with in those discussions have been incorporated into the "walleye dream boat" described herein. In addition, I thank Dave Zammitt, who provided me with assistance and expert answers to my many technical questions on boat rigging and set-up.