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Encyclopizza®
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CONTENTS
The Ready-to-Use Option
Baker's Percents
Two Variations: Dough Ball and
Bulk
Dough-making
Steps: Pizza Dough
• STEP 1: Setting-up
• STEP
2: Rehydrating Yeast and Scaling Ingredients
• Rehydrating Yeast
• Scaling Ingredients
• STEP 3: Mixing
• Ingredients
Sequence
• Mixing Times
• Batch size
• Stages of
Dough Development
• Emergency Dough
• Compensating for Mistakes
• STEP 4A: Scaling, Rounding, Traying
• Manual Scaling &
Rounding
• Batch Dividing-rounding
• Continuous Dividing-rounding
• STEP 4B: Bulk Fermentation
• Bench-resting
• STEP
5: Retarding (or else proofing)
• Proofing
Formula
Development for Pizza Dough
• Formula Balance
•
Dry vs. Liquid Ingredients
• Strengthening vs. Tenderizing Ingredients
• Ingredient Effects
• Lean Dough, Rich Dough
•
Development Questions
• Development Process
• Set Up a Test
Kitchen
• Write It Down
• Compare Each Test Batch to a "Best-yet"
Recipe
• Make Informed Guesses
• Try Many Things, Including
Your Hunches
• Vary Both Amount and Type of Ingredients
•
Convert the Best Test Recipe to Large-batch Size
• Create a Written
Procedure and Follow It
Baking
Test for Pizza Dough
Baker's Percents
Pizza Dough Formulas (Links
to Dough Recipes in this section.)
• 1. All-purpose Pizza
Dough recipe
• 2. Fast-rising Pizza Dough recipe
• 3. Easy-to-sheet
Pizza Dough recipe
• 4. High-browning Pizza Crust recipe
• 5.
Lean 'n' Chewy Pizza Crust recipe
• 6. Rich 'n' Tender Pizza Crust recipe
• 7. Thin 'n' Crackery Pizza Crust (stiff dough) recipe
• 8. Chicago
Deep-dish Pizza Crust recipe
• 9. Basic Neapolitan Pizza Crust recipe
• 10. Basic Sicilian Pizza Crust recipe
• 11. Whole Wheat Pizza
Crust recipe
• 12. Three-grain Pizza Crust recipe
• 13. Higher-protein
Pizza Crust recipe
• 14. Herb & Wine Pizza Crust recipe
•
15. Pepper-Cheese Pizza Crust recipe
• 16. Beer Pizza Crust recipe
• 17. Garlic & Butter Pizza Crust recipe
• 18. Italian Accent
Pizza Crust recipe
• 19. French Sour Dough Pizza Crust recipe
•
20. Crostata Pizza Crust recipie
• 21. Diet-enhanced Pizza Crust recipe
Diet-enhanced Pizza Guidelines
Retarded Dough for Pizza
•
All-purpose Pizza Dough for Retarding
Frozen
Dough
Parbaked Pizza Crust
Sample
Production Procedure
• Introduction
• Recipe
for One Batch
• Set-up
• Planetary Mixer Assembly
•
Cutter-mixer Assembly
• Scaling Ingredients
• Mixing
• Using a Planetary Mixer
• Using a Cutter-mixer
• Dividing,
Rounding, and Traying
• Manual Scaling and Rounding
• Optional
Procedure: Used with a Batch Divider-rounder (fully automatic type)
•
Refrigerating (retarding)
• Quality & Production Standards
Mix Packet Procedure
• Planetary Mixer Procedure
• Cutter-mixer Procedure
NOTE:
Visit the Encyclopizza
home page for the complete Table of Contents, including pizza dough/crust/sauce
recipes.
ALONG with quality ingredients in the right proportion, proper procedure is vital for making consistent quality pizza dough. This chapter describes the steps and recipes for various types of dough. The discussion presumes that you have a basic knowledge of dough-making equipment and ingredients, as described in previous chapters.
Lengths, weights, temperatures, and volume measurements are given in inches, pounds and ounces, degrees Fahrenheit, and quarts and cups (U.S. version). The following abbreviations are used: lb = pounds, oz = ounces, F = Fahrenheit, and qt = quarts. For conversion to other measurement systems, refer to the chapter on Measurements and Conversions.
There are two alternatives to mixing pizza dough on-site: (1) frozen dough and
(2) parbaked crust. Both approaches eliminate the need for scaling, mixing, and
handling fresh dough. They also eliminate the need for a mixer, but frozen dough
requires a freezer.
The main advantage of frozen dough and parbaked crust is the elimination of the drawbacks to on-site preparation. Summarized, this includes doing away with a mixer and also the hassle and occasional mistake that can accompany dough-making. It also reduces work, which presumably results in lower labor cost.
The main drawback to frozen and parbaked product is the lack of opportunity to create a custom recipe and, so, to differentiate from the competition. It also takes away the opportunity to advertise “freshly mixed dough made with a secret formula, etc.,” along with removing the chance to create specialty crusts and enhance the current crust. Finally, frozen or parbaked product incurs a higher food cost than preparing from scratch.
In short, the dough/crust decision is an important one. There is no one right answer for all pizzerias. The decision depends on the situation and priorities of the business, including customer perceptions and preferences, competitive situation, available space and equipment, pricing structure, and management involvement and availability.
For those pizzeria owners who want to design a custom crust, or simply seek to know more about how pizza dough is made, the rest of this chapter is for them.
For
convenience, bakers refer to ingredient amounts in a dough formula as a percentage
of total flour weight. That means, regardless of how much flour a formula
calls for, the flour amount is always considered to be 100 percent and every
other ingredient is referred to as a percentage thereof. For example, if a formula
calls for 25 lb flour and 15 lb water, they would say that the formula consisted
of 60 percent water (15 ÷ 25 = .60 or 60 percent). They call this a baker’s
percent. To further illustrate, if a baker said “lower water by 5 percent,”
this would mean that the water portion should be reduced 5 percent of the weight
of the flour portion called for by the recipe.
Throughout this chapter and other chapters on dough, whenever we mention percentages we’re referring to baker’s percents. So keep in mind that these percents refer to a percent of the total flour weight in the dough formula, not a percent of total dough weight.
Based on how the crust is made—whether rolled from a ball or cut from a sheet
of dough—there are two basic dough-making methods: (1) dough ball and (2) bulk.
In the dough ball method, dough is scaled and rounded into proper-weight
balls, then trayed and, most probably, retarded. In the bulk method dough
is placed into tubs in large pieces, called in-bulk, then fermented in preparation
for sheeting. Or, sometimes, fermentation is omitted and the dough is simply bench-rested
and then sheeted immediately. Here’s the steps in each method.
Dough Ball Method
1. Set-up.
2. Rehydrate yeast and scale ingredients.
3. Mix.
4. Scale, round, and tray balls.
5. Retard (i.e., refrigerate) or else proof for immediate rolling.
Bulk Method
1. Set-up.
2. Rehydrate yeast and scale ingredients.
3. Mix.
4. Load into tubs and ferment.
Sometimes the fermentation step is skipped and, instead, dough is bench-rested for a few minutes, then taken to the sheeter. A gluten-relaxing dough conditioner (ex., L-cysteine) is often used for this process.
These steps are described below in full.
This section explains the hows and whys of dough-making, so it’s lengthy in parts.
For an exact description of dough-making procedure see the Sample Production
Procedure section at the end of this chapter.
Pizza dough-making derives from traditional bread-making. Ingredients are the same, however procedures are not. In bread-making a baker determines the exact timing of up to eleven steps from set-up to oven. In pizza dough-making only five steps are controlled by the dough-maker—after that the customer takes over. This complicates and changes the pizza dough-making process to the point where much of conventional bread-making procedure doesn’t apply. So we take what can be used from the science of bread-making, then add to it to create the technology of pizza dough-making. Here are the steps.
The important first step of efficient dough-making is proper set-up. It typically involves the following:
• Plan production. Post a production sheet; determine number of batches (dough balls) to be made.
• Clear tables and work area of unneeded items.
• Gather utensils: Containers, thermometer, timer, scale, measuring spoons and cups, knives, dough scraper, trays.
• Gather ingredients: Flour, yeast, etc.
• Assemble the mixer. With a planetary mixer use the dough hook—either J-type or spiral. With a cutter-mixer use the shaft recommended for dough by the manufacturer.
• Arrange the work area for efficient production.
As discussed in the section on Yeast, proper rehydration is critical. The procedure is as follows.
1. Rinse the yeast bowl with warm water to pre-warm it.
2. Add water of proper temperature to the yeast bowl—use approximately 10 percent of the water called for in the recipe, but not less than 4-times the weight of the yeast. For water temperature, follow directions on the yeast package. If there’s no directions, use the temperatures below. Measure temperature by thermometer, not by feel.
• Compressed yeast = 80 to 90 degrees F water
• REGULAR active dry yeast (ADY) = 100 to 110 degrees F water
• INSTANT dry yeast = 100 degrees F water (in certain recipes instant yeast is added dry to the flour).
3. OPTIONAL: Add a small amount of sugar to the water—stir to dissolve. Use about 1 teaspoon sugar per pound (or pint) of yeast water. If the recipe omits sugar, substitute flour.
4. Measure the exact amount of yeast needed and sprinkle (or crumble) it over the water. The best method is weighing. If the portion is too small for accurate weighing, use measuring spoons. Measure level, not rounded. Stir it thoroughly into the water to dissolve. To control the rate of fermentation or rise, either the yeast portion or the dough water temperature must be adjusted seasonally. Further explanation is provided in the upcoming sections on Yeast Portion and Dough and Water Temperature.
5. Put the yeast bowl aside and set a timer for 10 minutes. The location should be room temperature (70 to 80 degrees F).
6. After 10 minutes, check the yeast water for foam. If there is none, one of these problems exists: (1) yeast is old or dead, (2) water was wrong temperature, or (3) sugar was omitted, or salt was used instead of sugar. Correct the problem and repeat steps 1 to 6. Do not rehydrate yeast for longer than 15 minutes.
YEAST PORTION. Dough fermentation rate will vary with seasonal and daily temperature changes. The warmer the air, the faster dough balls rise and, if pan proofing is used, the faster dough rises in the pan. So to control the amount of fermentation or rise, adjust the yeast portion accordingly. To achieve faster rise, increase the portion, say, 10 to 20 percent. To slow it down, decrease the portion. In conclusion, adjust the yeast portion by whatever amount is needed to achieve the amount of fermentation you desire. An alternative to adjusting the yeast portion is to change the dough water temperature—cooler in summer, warmer in winter (see upcoming section).
While yeast is rehydrating, scale the remaining ingredients. Follow these pointers.
• Measure dry ingredients by weight, not volume. However, if a measuring spoon must be used, use level measures, not rounded (scrape it flat with a straight edge). Water and oil can be measured by either weight or volume. When measuring by volume, a glass or plastic container with a level marking line should be used.
• Use an accurate scale. It’s a good idea to have a standard weight handy to check the scale now and then for accuracy. For absolute precise weighing, an electronic scale is best. However a mechanical portion scale with 32 oz capacity in 1/8 oz increments will work fine for small ingredients. A dashpot feature which eliminates needle bounce speeds weighing. For flour and water, a mechanical dial scale will do the job, although electronic and balance beam scales work, too. It should have a 40 or 50 lb capacity in 2 oz increments, and a large platform (at least 12-inches x 12-inches).
• Allow for the weight of container. Some scales have a tare feature which allows the operator to subtract or “zero-out” the container weight. If you don’t have it, be sure to allow for container weight when scaling.
• Take care to measure accurately. A small variation, especially with salt or yeast, can change dough consistency and performance.
• Don’t combine the small ingredients with the flour. Instead, stir them into the dough water immediately prior to mixing.
• Use a water temperature that will produce dough of the desired temperature, as explained next.
DOUGH AND WATER TEMPERATURE. Fermentation rate is determined in large part by dough temperature. The warmer the dough (up to 100 degrees F), the faster is fermentation. Basically, for every 18 degrees F rise in dough temperature (up to 100 degrees), fermentation rate doubles. So, for example, 80 degree dough will rise twice as fast as 62 degree dough. A typical bakery brings bread dough from the mixer at 78 to 80 degrees F. This might also work best for you. However, for pizzerias there is no industry-wide standard. The best temperature is the one that produces the best dough for the pizza-making system. And systems vary. The key is to find the optimum dough temperature for your pizza system, and then obtain that temperature consistently.
Three factors can cause dough temperature to vary:
• Air temperature
• Flour temperature
• Water temperature.
Since air temperature and flour temperature aren’t controllable by a dough-maker, varying the water temperature is the key to achieving consistent dough temperature from day to day. This means, as air and flour temperature rise, water temperature should be lowered, and vice versa. Here’s a method for determining what water temperature you should use. There are two parts to it.
FIRST, with each batch of dough, record the temperature of (1) air, (2) flour, and (3) water, and then add those three temperatures together. Also, for your information, record the dough temperature and observe how each batch rises. When you find a batch that rises exactly as much as you want (that is, results in the crust you want), the total air+flour+water temperature becomes your ideal air+flour+water temperature, abbreviated ideal A+F+W temp.
THEN, every day you make dough, you determine the desired water temperature by subtracting the current air and flour temperatures from the ideal A+F+W temp. For example, if the ideal A+F+W temp is, say, 218 degrees F, and the current air+flour temperature is 144 degrees, your desired water temperature would be 74 degrees (218 – 144 = 74). The formula looks like this:
Ideal A+F+W temp – Current A+F temp = Desired water temp
To measure flour and water temperature, use a mechanical stem thermometer or an electronic digital thermometer. The electronic type is quickest.
In retail baking various mixing methods are used. However, they are categorized into two basic types: (1) straight dough method and (2) sponge method, sometimes called sponge-and-dough.
In the straight dough method all ingredients are combined and mixed in one stage. The straight dough method is simplest and, for a pizzeria, the most appropriate. So that’s the one we use in this book. Some bakers use variations on the straight dough method. For example, there’s the “delayed salt” method which calls for adding the salt after the dough has mixed into a ball. There’s also the “delayed shortening” method which adds the shortening after the dough has formed into a ball. However, for pizza dough the easiest and most appropriate method is to combine all ingredients at once.
With the sponge method—which is a 2-stage process—the water, yeast, and approximately 60 percent of the flour are mixed together to form a thick batter or slack dough (called a sponge or pre-ferment). It’s allowed to ferment for 3 to 4 hours until doubled in volume. Then the remaining flour and other ingredients are added and mixing is completed. The sponge method is used more by bread bakers than by pizza-makers. However, if desired, the method can be applied to any of the recipes in this book. Sponge method proponents point out that it provides more scheduling flexibility, in that a sponge can usually be held longer than a finished dough. It also has a shorter fermentation time in the finished dough form. Finally, some people believe it results in increased flavor.
From here on, when we speak of mixing we’re referring to the straight dough method.
FOUR FUNCTIONS OF MIXING. Mixing accomplishes four purposes. First, it disperses ingredients uniformly. Second, it combines them into a uniform dough. Third, it develops the gluten (i.e., makes it more extensible), so the dough will expand and hold the gas formed during fermentation. Fourth, it incorporates air into the dough, which aids fermentation and develops the basis for a uniform cellular network during proofing.
Various sequences are used by bakers for adding ingredients to the mixer. It appears that they all produce about the same results with pizza dough. Nonetheless, to have a standard we recommend that ingredients be added to the mixer in the following order:
1. Water and other liquid ingredients.
2. Dry ingredients, except flour.
3. Yeast water.
4. Flour.
5. Oil or shortening.
NOTES: When instant yeast is added dry, sprinkle it on top of the flour and stir it in.
After adding the salt, sugar, and other dry ingredients, stir the water for 5 to 10 seconds to disperse and dissolve the ingredients.
After adding the yeast water, stir it to disperse the yeast and then immediately add the flour and oil and turn on the mixer. If yeast sits for a long time in salty or sugary water it can harm the yeast and reduce dough fermentation.
The main reason for recommending this sequence is that it works for all types of mixers.
Initially, mixing time for pizza dough was based on mixing time for bread dough, which is a soft dough that’s mixed to full development. Depending on the mixer, this required up to 20 minutes of mix time in some machines, or 12 to 18 minutes in a planetary mixer on low speed. However, pizza dough not only comes in soft form but also stiff. And the stiffer the dough, the shorter the mix time—for two reasons. First, many mixers are not powerful enough to mix stiff dough for long times. Second, stiff doughs are usually fermented for many hours, sometimes a day, which allows for adequate dough development and relaxation. So, we don’t prescribe one mix time for all doughs. Instead we provide a range of times based on stiffness of the dough. For that purpose we divide pizza dough into five categories of stiffness, related to the percent of water used.
Five Categories of Dough (stiffness)
SOFT = 55 percent or more water (compared to flour weight)
MEDIUM-SOFT = 51 to 54 percent water
MEDIUM = 47 to 50 percent water
MEDIUM-STIFF = 43 to 46 percent water
STIFF = 42 percent or less water
The above chart assumes a lean dough formula (i.e., little oil or shortening). However, factors other than water can affect dough stiffness. For example, the weaker the flour, the softer the dough will be. Also, the greater the amount of oil, the softer the dough will be. Finally, the colder the dough, the stiffer it is and the less time it’s mixed.
In addition, the batch size affects the optimum mix time for a given mixer. Because a small or reduced-size batch receives less friction from mixing it must be mixed slightly longer than a full-size batch to achieve the same dough temperature and degree of gluten development.
Finally, and most importantly, mix times vary with the type of mixer. So, here are mix times for the five types of dough as they relate to planetary mixer, cutter-mixer, and spiral mixer.
Mix Times for Planetary Mixer
SOFT DOUGH = 12 to 18 minutes
first speed, or
1 minute first speed plus 6 to 9 minutes second speed. (Some
older mixers should only be used on first speed for mixing pizza dough. Also,
some heavy-duty mixers have slower mix speeds and, therefore, require longer mix
times.)
MEDIUM-SOFT = 9 to 12 minutes first speed.
MEDIUM = 6 to 9 minutes first speed.
MEDIUM-STIFF = 4 to 6 minutes first speed.
STIFF = 3 to 4 minutes first speed.
Mix
Times for Cutter-mixer
Mix on low speed only.
R/S/W/B = Robot Coupe, Stephan, Westglen, Berkel.
SOFT DOUGH =
1-1/2 to 2 minutes for R/S/W/B.
2-1/2 to 3-1/2 minutes for Hobart.
MEDIUM-SOFT
= 1 to 1-1/2 minutes for R/S/W/B.
2 to 2-1/2 minutes for Hobart.
MEDIUM
= 45 to 60 seconds for R/S/W/B.
1-1/2 to 2 minutes for Hobart.
MEDIUM-STIFF
= 30 to 45 seconds for R/S/W/B.
60 to 90 seconds for Hobart.
STIFF
= 20 to 30 seconds for R/S/W/B.
40 to 60 seconds for Hobart.
Mix Times for Spiral Mixer
SOFT DOUGH = 2 minutes low speed plus 5 to 6 minutes high speed.
MEDIUM-SOFT = 2 minutes low speed plus 4 to 5 minutes high speed.
MEDIUM = 6 to 9 minutes low speed.
MEDIUM-STIFF = 4 to 6 minutes low speed.
STIFF = 3 to 4 minutes low speed.
The above times are meant to serve as a guideline. A number of factors influence mixing time, such as type of flour used, dough temperature, and amount of shortening and dough additives. Each pizzeria must determine the optimum time for its dough—and testing is the only way to do that (see the section on Baking Test).
For good mixing, batch size must correspond to mixer type and size. Too large or too small of a batch can result in poorly mixed dough. Generally, for a soft dough (55 to 60 percent water compared to flour weight), the following maximum batch sizes apply. However, older models of planetary mixers with smaller motors might not accept this much dough. In any case, do not exceed the manufacturer’s recommendation.
Maximum Batch Size Guidelines—Soft Dough
30-qt planetary mixer = 20 lb maximum
60-qt planetary mixer = 40 to 45 lb
80-qt planetary mixer = 100 to 110 lb
25/30-qt cutter-mixer = 25 lb
40/45-qt cutter-mixer = 40 to 45 lb
Stiffer dough requires a smaller batch size.
A rule of thumb that’s used in determining maximum batch size for a planetary mixer is to use no more than half the quart size of the mixer in flour. For example, for a 60-qt planetary mixer the maximum flour portion would be 30 lb; for an 80-qt mixer it would be 40 lb.
Dough development during mixing is achieved in four stages. First is the blending stage, where ingredients are blended together into a sticky mass in the bottom of the bowl.
Second, as mixing continues, the dough enters the pick-up stage, where gluten structure begins to form. At this point lumpiness disappears and the dough starts to shape into a ball. (Gluten is formed when two types of flour proteins—namely, glutenin and gliadin—combine with each other in the presence of water.) Pizzerias that mix a stiff dough for sheeting into a thin, crackery crust might stop mixing at this point.
Third, if mixing is continued the dough progresses into the clean-up stage, where it becomes dryer and more elastic. It tends to beat the side of the mixing bowl and, as the name implies, starts to clean off the side of the bowl. The dough begins to lose elasticity and becomes more pliable. Stiff dough reaches the clean-up stage sooner than soft dough. This stage is completed when the dough clears away from the bowl.
Fourth is the development stage. The gluten becomes more extensible and the dough takes on a dry, smooth, satiny sheen. Soft dough is typically mixed to what’s called “full development.” When fully developed a small piece of dough about the size of a golf ball can be gently stretched and pulled into a thin, silky, semi-translucent sheet of uniform thickness. Bakers call this a “cleared” dough. To do this with cutter-mixer dough the dough must be allowed to relax for five minutes after mixing. Typically, the stiffer a pizza dough is, the less development it receives during mixing (i.e., the shorter the mix time). So a stiff dough comes from the mixer “under-developed.” A small piece cannot be stretched into a smooth, thin sheet and, when that’s tried, it will often tear. If greatly under-developed it will show strands and lumps and break easily.
If mixed beyond the development stage, a soft dough starts to lose its elasticity and becomes softer and more extensible. This is called the letdown stage. If mixing continues, the dough completely disintegrates and becomes wet and stringy.
In addition to developing gluten, mixing incorporates minute bubbles, or air cells, into the dough. The cells are important to dough fermentation and crust structure, as they provide nitrogen for yeast and also serve as the basic cellular network that later will expand into a well-risen crust with proper fermentation (proofing).
Sometimes emergencies arise when dough must be mixed and made immediately into pizzas, and no time is available for fermentation. In this case, double the yeast portion and adjust water temperature so that the dough comes from the mixer at 90 degrees F. Also, if it’s not already included, put 3 percent sugar in the recipe. Finally, if using a soft dough, make sure it’s mixed to full development (i.e., to a pliable consistency). Some people refer to this as no-time dough. To save time, some bakeries use no-time dough for regular production, in which case the dough formula usually includes dough conditioners and extra diastatic malt. The main drawback to emergency or no-time dough is that it may lack the distinctive flavor produced by fermentation.
Sometimes mistakes in measuring and mixing occur. Here’s what to do.
DOUGH TOO SLACK. If during mixing you find the dough is too slack, add more flour and keep mixing. Hopefully this can be done in a minute or two, so the dough won’t be over-developed.
DOUGH TOO STIFF. This is tougher to correct. When water is added to finished dough in a planetary mixer it tends to slosh around and takes a while to absorb. If added in the middle of mixing at the pick-up stage, it works better. With a cutter-mixer, once it’s shut off with a batch of dough in it, it can’t be restarted.
DOUGH UNDER-MIXED. Turn the mixer back on and mix it some more. This is sometimes difficult to do with a cutter-mixer, however.
DOUGH OVER-MIXED. If it’s just slightly over-mixed, and the flour is of high protein, it might still be usable. If greatly over-mixed, it shouldn’t be used. Some dough-makers add over-mixed dough and over-fermented dough to new dough during the last minute of mixing. When done, it shouldn’t exceed 10 percent of the batch weight. It’s called “re-mixing” dough and, generally speaking, it’s not a recommended practice because it can alter the character of the crust.
With the dough ball method of dough-making, the dough must be scaled (or divided) into pizza-size weights, rounded into balls, and then placed into a tray or pan. Bakers sometimes refer to this process as make-up. It can be accomplished three ways: (1) manually, (2) with a batch divider-rounder, or (3) with a continuous divider-rounder. Each way is examined here.
After taking the dough from the mixer, let it relax, or “bench rest” as it’s called, for about five minutes. This makes it easier to handle. For scaling you will need:
• Dough trays or pans
• Portion scale
• Sharp knife (cook’s knife with 10-inch blade is recommended), or a dough cutter.
A mechanical scale with 32 oz capacity in 1/4 or 1/8 oz increments works fine. A dashpot feature makes for faster scaling. This is the procedure.
1. Using the cook’s knife (or dough cutter) cut off dough pieces of desired weight. Scale 8 to 10 pieces, or enough for one tray. With a little practice a person should be able to scale most pieces within 1/2 oz of desired weight in two cuts. An experienced person should also be able to accurately scale (within 1/2 oz) at least six pieces per minute.
2. Form the pieces into smooth, round balls. Do this by stretching the outer surface downward and tucking it into one spot. An experienced person should be able to round at least six pieces per minute. Bakers often round a small piece of dough, such as a dinner roll, by rolling it on the table with the palm of the hand. As they rotate the dough, the edge of the hand pinches the dough against the bench, which stretches the surface and forms it into a smooth ball. However, due to the large size of a pizza dough ball, pizza-makers have found it quicker to pick up the dough piece and mold it with two hands.
3. Place balls neatly into a tray with the tucked spot down. Allow adequate space for proofing (about 2 inches between balls). Flatten each ball with the palm of the hand to prevent it from touching the tray above. In place of trays, individual pans can be used.
4. Repeat steps 1 to 3 until finished. Stack the trays or pans for storage. The neatest device for dough ball storage is a nesting-type fiberglass or plastic tray because it eliminates the need for oiling the balls. However, dough balls can also be stored on aluminum sheet pans. In this case the balls must be brushed with oil and the tray covered with a food-grade plastic bag to prevent crusting.
For faster production a pizzeria can use a batch-type divider-rounder (described in the Mixers and Food Processing Equipment chapter) which takes a large piece of dough, divides it into about ten equal parts, then rounds them into balls. This is the procedure.
1. Using the cook’s knife, cut off a large piece of dough of desired weight. The “desired weight” is that which produces the proper size dough balls after being divided by the machine.
2. Round the piece into a ball and set it on the table. Scale and round 3 to 4 dough balls. It helps to let them bench rest for 8 to 10 minutes before dividing as it makes the dough more moldable, which produces balls of more uniform weight. Use this time to scale ingredients for the next batch of dough.
3. Place a dough ball on a pallet (a round plate which slides into the divider) and flatten it until the pallet is covered with dough.
4. Slide the pallet into the divider and activate it for dividing and rounding. On a semi-automatic model this involves pulling an arm. On a fully automatic machine only a button is pushed. Make sure the pallet is centered or it will damage the machine.
5. After rounding, remove the pallet, place it on a table, and put the balls neatly into a tray (or pans). Allow adequate space for proofing (about 2 inches between them). Flatten each ball with the palm of your hand to prevent it from touching the tray above. In place of trays, individual pans can be used.
6. Repeat steps 1 to 5 until finished. Stack the trays or pans for storage.
7. Clean pallets and machine. Lubricate the machine monthly according to manufacturer’s instructions.
For fastest production, such as might be needed in a commissary or very high volume pizzeria, a continuous-type divider-rounder (described in the Mixers and Food Processing Equipment chapter) could prove worthwhile. This is the procedure.
1. Adjust the divider to produce the desired size dough ball. (Receive a demonstration from the company representative upon installation, and follow manufacturer’s instructions.)
2. Coat the hopper with a light coating of food-safe mineral oil. This can be done with a cloth or misting bottle.
3. Fill the hopper with dough. Do this by cutting off several 10 to 20 lb pieces. Do not balance large pieces on your shoulder or chest.
4. Periodically check dough ball weights as they come from the machine. Make adjustments as needed.
5. As the balls come out, place them neatly into a tray (or pans). Allow adequate space for proofing (about 2 inches between them). Flatten each ball with the palm of the hand to prevent them from touching the tray above. In place of trays, individual pans can be used.
6. Repeat steps 1 to 5 until finished. Stack the trays or pans for storage.
7. Clean the machine. Lubricate the machine monthly according to manufacturer’s instructions.
If dough balls aren’t used, a pizzeria employs the bulk method. With this method dough is taken from the mixer, put into a tub, and set aside to ferment (or rise) in bulk.
If it won’t be used until the next day it’s sometimes put into a refrigerator (to slow down fermentation) and then pulled out the next day to warm up. However, a large amount of dough cools slowly. This can result in the center remaining warmer for a longer time than the outside—which may cause the interior to be over-fermented while the outside is under-fermented—a condition that will cause crust inconsistency. So if dough is retarded in bulk it’s a good idea to cut it into small chunks (e.g., 5 to 10 lbs). Or, better yet, try to adjust yeast (and possibly sugar) portion so that the dough will ferment to proper level when kept at room temperature, and omit refrigeration.
Some pizzerias sheet and cut dough immediately after mixing—meaning, they sheet and cut unfermented dough. To make this dough easier to handle, allow it to bench rest for 10 to 15 minutes first. In bakeries this is known as an “intermediate proof.” Dough for sheeting may also benefit from a gluten-relaxing dough conditioner (ex., L-cysteine) which makes dough more extensible.
Retarding—or refrigerating dough at 32 to 38 degrees F—is done when dough balls won’t be used for several hours or, possibly, days. The purpose of retarding is to slow down (i.e., retard) fermentation so balls won’t over-rise before rolling.
With dough trays, stack them criss-crossed in the refrigerator. This provides air circulation which is needed for fast, uniform cooling. After one hour check the dough temperature with a stem thermometer. If it’s 55 degrees F or colder, nest the trays together into an airtight stack. Make sure they’re nested tightly to prevent crusting. Place an empty tray on top. If trays aren’t of the nesting kind, cover them with a lid or plastic wrap or slide each tray into a plastic bag. Brushing or spraying dough balls with oil keeps the plastic from sticking.
With dough pans, leave them uncovered until the dough temperature drops to 55 degrees or colder, then cover them or nest them together.
To insure consistent rise, always take dough balls to the refrigerator within the same time after mixing. Then, leave them uncovered for the same time as well—usually one hour. If you forget to cover the dough it will produce leathery balls. Setting a 1-hour timer helps. Retarding is the simplest step in dough-making, but if not done right it causes big problems.
Dough balls that will be used for pizza within four hours should be proofed rather than retarded. Proofing is the final stage of dough fermentation and occurs when dough is allowed to rise prior to making it into pizza. There are two kinds of proofing: (1) dough ball proofing and (2) pan or screen proofing. With dough ball proofing the ball is allowed to rise until it doubles in volume (which is about a 50 percent increase in diameter), then it’s rolled into a pizza and baked immediately. With pan proofing, the rolled dough is placed into a pan or onto a screen and then set aside until it’s at least doubled in height. For pan pizza, some pizzerias pan proof dough until it has tripled in height. Then it’s sauced, cheesed, and baked.
Two factors affect the rate of proofing: temperature and humidity. With proper yeast portion, dough ball proofing can be accomplished at room temperature (i.e., 80 degrees F). Brush the balls with oil or keep them covered to prevent crusting. To speed the proofing process, put the dough in a warm spot, such as near ovens, in the sunlight, or next to a heat vent. Some pizzerias put pans of dough balls on a rack and, to prevent dough drying, cover the rack with a plastic cover.
A more elegant solution is a proof box, or proofer, which has temperature and moisture controls. This eliminates the need for covering dough or for moving it to special locations in the room. Bakers usually proof at 85 to 95 degrees F and 80 to 90 percent relative humidity. For the quickest rise, set the proof box temperature at 95 to 105 degrees.
For a good crust, dough balls should be proofed until doubled in volume before rolling. This amounts to about a 50 percent increase in dough ball diameter.
The formula, or recipe, plays a key role in crust flavor, color, and texture.
Obtaining a good formula is a major challenge for those starting a pizza business.
For those already in it, the challenge is often one of enhancing the current formula,
plus designing additional formulas for new products and special occasions. In
any case, the goal is the same: To develop a unique formula that results in a
quality crust. This section describes how to do it. Although the focus is on dough,
the basic process applies to designing sauce recipes, as well.
By knowing what makes one dough different from another you can more easily develop a winning formula, as well as correct a problem. Developing a formula that makes the kind of crust you want depends on having the right balance of ingredients. Basically, there are two kinds of balances: dry vs. liquid and strengthening vs. tenderizing.
Pizza dough is a balance of dry and liquid ingredients. Proper balance produces a dough of proper consistency. When dry vs. liquid ingredients are out of balance it results in dough that’s either overly stiff or overly slack and a corresponding crust that’s overly dry or overly weak and mushy.
The main dry ingredient is flour. Other ones are sugar, non-fat dry milk, and dried eggs. The main liquid ingredient is water. Other ones are fresh milk products, other beverages, and fresh eggs. Oil has a liquifying effect, too.
When out of balance (too stiff or too slack) either the flour or the water portion must be changed. Generally speaking, you should adjust the water portion when you need to change dough consistency, as a change in flour portion might necessitate changing other ingredients as well. What’s more, when increasing either dry or liquid ingredients you must increase something in the opposite group to compensate. For example, if you were to increase non-fat dry milk (a dry ingredient) by 8 ounces, to maintain the same dough consistency you would need to increase a liquid ingredient (usually water) by 6 ounces. Here’s how much the water portion must be increased when increasing dry ingredient portions.
To Maintain Dry-liquid Balance
Item Water Portion
Increased
Change
Flour Increase water enough to maintain
current flour-to-water ratio
Sugar Increase water by 25 percent of weight of additional sugar
NFDM Increase water by 75 percent of weight of additional dry milk
Oil Reduce water 50 percent of weight of additional oil
Shortening Reduce water 33 percent of weight of additional solid shortening
When decreasing ingredient portions, make corresponding changes of water, as well. Also, when converting from compressed to dry yeast, increase water portion by an amount equal to the weight of dry yeast.
When developing a new recipe, here’s a formula (shown below) for determining the percent of water to use for making a soft dough. This is based on baker’s percents. A baker’s percent is the percent of flour weight that any particular non-flour component comprises. For example, if a formula calls for 25 lb flour and 15 lb water, we would say that the formula contains 60 percent water (calculated as follows: 15 ¸ 25 = .60 or 60%).
Formula to Determine Water Percent for Soft Dough made with 14-percent protein flour (All numbers are percents of total flour weight)
60 Percent
– Percent Other Liquids
– Percent Fresh Eggs
– One-half of the percent of Oil (one-third of the percent of solid shortening)
+ Three-fourths of the percent of Non-fat Dry Milk
+ One-fourth of
the percent of sugar
= Percent of Water to Use in Recipe
This formula is for making a soft dough using a high-gluten flour having a protein level of 14 percent. When using a flour having a lower protein level, you would use less water. Specifically, for each 1 percent drop in protein level below 14.0 percent, you would decrease the water portion by 1.5 percent of flour weight. (And, conversely, for each 1 percent increase in protein level above 14.0 percent, you would increase the water portion by 1.5 percent of flour weight.) Also, keep in mind that blending weaker flours or meals with high-gluten flour reduces the dough’s protein level. Finally, if you want to make a stiff(er) dough instead of a soft dough, you would use less water—down to a minimum of 40 percent of flour weight.
In addition to dry-liquid balance, ingredients must be balanced in terms of strengthening vs. tenderizing effect. Proper balance produces a dough/crust that maintains a full rise, supports sauce, cheese, and toppings, provides the desired amount of “bite” and, in addition, feels tender and moist in the mouth. When out of balance the crust develops low volume and is either overly tough or overly soft and mushy.
The main strengthening ingredient is gluten, or flour protein. Other ingredients that affect product strength are egg whites, salt, and acid ingredients. The main tenderizing ingredient is oil or shortening. Other tenderizers are egg yolks, sugar, non-wheat flours and meals, and alkaline ingredients. Finally, numerous dough additives have various strengthening and tenderizing effects.
When out of balance (i.e., the crust is either too tough or too soft and weak) usually either the dough’s gluten content (type of flour) must be changed, or the oil portion must be changed. However, changes in other ingredients can have a noticeable effect as well.
In addition to balance each ingredient does other things. Recipe development time can be shortened by knowing each ingredient’s effect on dough. Here’s a summary of what each ingredient does. For greater detail see the chapter on Dough Ingredients.
FLOUR PROTEIN LEVEL (gluten in dough) allows dough to rise during fermentation and retain its shape and volume after baking. More protein makes firmer, tougher dough and crust; less protein makes softer, tenderer dough and crust. So we can strengthen or tenderize dough and crust by adjusting the protein level. And we can adjust protein level by switching to another type of wheat flour, by adding/subtracting non-wheat flour or meal, or by adding/subtracting vital wheat gluten (an additive).
WATER adds moistness and is the main adjustment for dry-liquid balance. So we control dough consistency by adjusting the water portion. Water also affects dough other ways. Hard water toughens dough (by toughening gluten) and soft water weakens dough. Water in the pH range of 6.5 to 8.0 aids fermentation and overly acidic or overly alkaline water retards it. So we can affect dough’s toughness and fermentation rate by adjusting water hardness and/or pH with a yeast food additive or by adding acidic ingredients (ex., vinegar).
YEAST, through fermentation, digests sugar and produces CO2 gas which causes dough to rise. More yeast produces more rise, less yeast produces less. The main way we control the rate of rise is by adjusting the yeast portion. We can also affect it by the type of yeast used. In addition various other factors affect fermentation rate. Over 1 percent salt slows fermentation. Sugar up to 5 percent speeds it up, but over 5 percent begins to slow it down. Amylase enzymes, in the form of malted flour or other malt products, create more sugar in dough and, so, speeds up dough rising. (For discussion of all factors affecting fermentation rate, see the Yeast section in the Dough Ingredients chapter.)
SALT, in addition to flavor enhancement, strengthens gluten and, so, tightens dough and crust. Also, over 1 percent salt retards fermentation. So we can affect dough rise and texture by adjusting the salt portion.
SUGAR (i.e., sucrose), in addition to imparting sweetness, creates a tenderer, moister crust. If not consumed by the yeast it also increases crust browning. To insure a browner crust, add lactose sugar—which yeast doesn’t digest—in the form of non-fat dry milk or whey. In addition, up to 5 percent sucrose increases fermentation, but over 5 percent begins to slow it down. So we can affect the rate of rise and degree of browning by adjusting the amount and/or type of sugar used.
OIL (and shortening) lubricates gluten and, thereby, increases dough’s extensibility, making it less springy and easier to mold. It also increases crust tenderness and “moistness.” So, we can affect dough springiness and crust tenderness by adjusting the oil/shortening portion.
NON-FAT DRY MILK (NFDM) increases crust browning. We can affect the amount of browning by adjusting the amount of NFDM. It also increases dough’s fermentation tolerance and whitens and tenderizes the crust.
EGGS impart richer color, flavor, and texture. Egg yolks tend to soften dough and crust. Egg whites help create a crispier crust. So we can affect crust color and texture by the type and amount of egg product used.
LASTLY, there are numerous other ingredients which can be used to impart flavor and color variation, as well as many additives which can affect texture, fermentation, and other dough-crust properties. For further discussion see the chapter on Dough Ingredients.
By adjusting the amount of certain ingredients we can produce either lean dough or rich dough. Although there’s no exact dividing line, rich dough is higher in oil, sugar and, possibly, eggs, while lean dough has very little or none of these ingredients. As such, lean dough is usually stronger than rich dough. And rich dough is sweeter and more tender than lean dough. Generally speaking, thin crusts, which need more strength, are made from lean dough. Some thick crusts are also made from lean dough, however others are made from richer dough in order to create a tenderer bite.
Although it’s seldom used for pizza crust, there’s also a special type of rich dough called rolled-in dough. Croissants and Danish pastry are made with it. To create it, a flattened yeast dough (about 1/2-inch thick) is dotted with lumps of solid shortening, then folded into thirds or quarters and refrigerated. After firming up, it’s rolled and re-folded several more times. (For an exact procedure, refer to a baking cookbook.) The result is hundreds of thin layers of yeast dough separated by thin layers of shortening. During baking the dough separates into numerous paper-thin layers, resulting in a “flaky” baked good. Judging from crust texture, it appears that some frozen crust and pizza manufacturers use a modification of this method to create the effect of “light, aerated” crust.
To speed the development process it helps to have an idea of the type of dough and crust you want. This section describes some basic questions and lists pros and cons to opposing sides. Keep in mind that there are no hard-and-fast rules governing dough formulas. The best dough and crust is the one that fits your situation and pleases the greatest number of customers.
THICK OR THIN? Thick crust pizzas tend to be made with a richer dough containing fairly high amounts of oil and sugar (although some use lean dough). Sometimes they’re made with medium protein flour. Many thin crust pizzas employ a lean dough made with high-gluten flour to support the ingredients.
RICH & SOFT OR LEAN & CHEWY? Soft crust requires more oil, and possibly sugar, in the dough. Chewy crust requires a higher-gluten flour and minimal oil.
FRESH OR RETARDED? Will you be using dough the same day or retarding (refrigerating) it for use in following days? Fresh dough will likely need more yeast. Retarded dough usually works best with high-gluten flour and dry yeast.
DOUGH BALL OR BULK METHOD? Which pizza-making method are you using—dough ball or bulk method? If dough will be fermented overnight in bulk it will likely need much less water—in the 40 to 50 percent range. In this case it also will use a shorter mixing time.
SHEETING SHORTLY AFTER MIXING? If you’re doing this you will want to mix a slacker dough, possibly by using a medium protein flour or blending in 10 percent of a non-protein flour. You might also want to increase oil content and/or use a dough relaxing additive.
DEGREE OF BROWNNESS? Do you want a dark brown crust? If so then you’ll probably need something in the dough to aid browning, such as extra sugar or non-fat dry milk. On the other hand, if you want a lighter brown color you’ll probably want to keep sugar to a minimum and avoid using NFDM.
HEALTH IMAGE? Are you trying to project a “healthy image” for the pizza? If so you may want to consider blending in another flour, such as whole wheat, or adding soy flour (high in nutritional protein). You also would probably want to keep saturated oil to a minimal amount.
SPECIAL FLAVOR? Do you want to create a special flavor for the crust? If so then you’ll likely need to experiment with adding an unusual ingredient, such as one of the items listed in the section on Flavorings & Colorings in the Dough Ingredients chapter.
TYPE OF OVEN? DEGREE OF BUBBLING DESIRED? If you want more bubbles in your crust, a higher-moisture dough might be desirable. If you want fewer bubbles, a lower-moisture dough might be preferred. If you’re not into popping bubbles and you bake with a conveyor oven, you might want to test the lower-moisture option.
AVAILABLE INGREDIENTS. Formulate your dough recipe using readily available ingredients. Avoid things that will be difficult to obtain on a consistent basis.
Along with the above concepts, recipe development is enhanced by following a few simple guidelines, as follows.
Recipe development usually progresses in small steps. It’s a trial-and-error process that proceeds from batch to batch, with each batch being slightly different from—and hopefully an improvement upon—the prior one. Sometimes dozens of batches must be tested before arriving at the desired result. So mixing 20 lb batches in a pizzeria-size mixer is not economical. You need a way to make 1 to 2 lb batches—in short, a test kitchen.
It can be set up in the kitchen of a pizzeria, but sometimes a separate facility provides more privacy and convenience. A home basement works just fine.
Buy a small mixer, preferably one that simulates your pizzeria mixer. For a planetary type, buy a used 5 or 12 qt table model (Hobart makes them). Or, for a less expensive domestic version, buy a Kitchen Aid mixer (about $300) at a kitchen supply store. For a cutter-mixer, Stephan makes a 12 qt table model and Robot Coupe makes sizes ranging from 3 to 15 qt. One advantage of a cutter-mixer is that you can make several recipe variations quickly. It can also be used for chopping cheese and blending sauce. A domestic cutter-mixer—known as a food processor—will also do the job. A popular brand is the Cuisinart (about $300). Buy the large model. It’ll whip up a nice 16 oz dough ball in about 90 seconds. For a spiral mixer, Rondo makes a 10 qt model (maximum 4 lb flour capacity) sized for test batches. When it comes to a test mixer, a used machine is as good as a new one since it won’t see heavy use.
In addition, you need small utensils—an accurate 32 oz portion scale, stem thermometer, measuring spoons, bowls, and whatever items you use for pizza baking (pans, screens, peel, etc.). If you want to take the temperature of baked pizzas, an infrared thermometer can be handy. Generally speaking, the best size for testing purposes is a medium pizza—in most cases, a 12-inch round. Stock a small inventory of test ingredients—flour, yeast, salt, sugar, etc. Use pizzeria-type supplies. For example, if you use high-gluten flour, don’t substitute all-purpose flour in the test kitchen.
Lastly, you need an oven. Table model pizza ovens—both gas and electric, deck and conveyor—are available. If that’s too expensive, a small, electric single-pizza oven with a slide-out wire rack can be used. If none of those are in the budget, use a home oven—bake the pizza on the lowest rack. A last resort is to carry the test dough to a pizzeria for baking, but if that’s required it would probably be more convenient to have your test mixer there, too.
To simulate hearth baking in a home oven you can buy a baking stone from a restaurant supply house. One company that sells them is American Metalcraft (708-345-1177). Bake at 450 to 500 degrees F and allow at least 45 minutes for the stone to heat up. Instead of a baking stone, some people have suggested making a baking hearth by piecing together 6-inch square, brown quarry tiles—the same as what’s used on most restaurant kitchen floors. However, since we don’t know what’s contained in the tile (such as, maybe, mercury), we do not recommend using them.
Breakthroughs often come when least expected. If you don’t know exactly what you did that caused a breakthrough, you might not be able to repeat it. Despite how it seems at the time, later you won’t remember exactly what you did. So, you must write things down—what you did and what the results were of every test, no matter how insignificant it might seem.
For record-keeping, use a 3-ring binder filled with lined paper. Use it only for recording test information. For each batch, use one sheet of paper and record (1) the date, (2) the exact recipe and any special procedures, and (3) the results—including special properties of the dough and final crust (i.e., color, rise, texture, taste, aroma). For details on doing a baking test, see the next section. In the beginning, keeping a notebook seems to slow down the testing process. However, in short time it becomes a valuable resource—a guide for reviewing past tests and planning new ones.
Creating a special recipe is like a journey—it has a starting point and destination points along the way. In this case the starting point is your current recipe. The destination points are each test batch. The goal of each batch is to make a small improvement on the current recipe, which we call the best-yet recipe. If you don’t have a current recipe, select one of the recipes provided in this chapter.
During testing compare each test batch to the best-yet recipe. Ask yourself: “Is it better than what I have now (the best-yet)?" If it isn’t then keep the best-yet recipe and reject the test formula. If it is, replace the current recipe with the new formula, which becomes the best-yet recipe used for comparing against future test batches. By this process you proceed step-by-step toward designing a special or improved crust.
A big challenge in recipe development is figuring out what changes to test next. It’s a guessing game and the more guesses (i.e., test batches) you must make, the more time and money is required. Sometimes a test dough has one property you like and one you don’t. In that case, try to figure out what ingredient is causing each result. This is where a knowledge of ingredients helps a lot. By knowing what ingredients do you can often hit the recipe mark with fewer test batches. In short, use a basic knowledge of pizza dough technology to guide your testing and guessing.
Along with logic we also recommend testing your whims and hunches. Logic can be helpful but since we lack total knowledge, logic isn’t the whole answer. Some of the best breakthroughs come from the creative side—trying a crazy idea. In addition, even when the idea doesn’t work it often yields knowledge that’s helpful down the road.
To change the properties of a dough or crust, change the amount of ingredients as well as the type. Keep in mind that when making changes it’s best to change only one variable at a time. Otherwise you won’t know how each change affects the resulting product.
For a guide to portion amounts, use the following percentage ranges. They are expressed as a percent of flour weight.
Ingredient Percents (compared to flour weight)
Acceptable......Typical
Range % Range %
Water 40-60 48-58
Yeast
0.5-3.0 What gives
desired rise
(compressed)
Salt 0.5-2.5 1-2
Sugar 0-10 0-5
Oil 0-30 0.5-3 lean, 4-15 rich
NFDM 0-6 0 (1-2 when used)
Eggs 0-5 0 (1-2 when used)
Egg whites 0-2 0 (1-2 when used)
For ideas on different ingredients review the chapter on Dough Ingredients. Pay special attention to the parts on Supplementary Flours & Meals; Flavorings & Colorings; and Dough Additives. In addition, take a stroll through a supermarket looking for things that might enhance your pizza dough. You might be surprised by how many ideas you can get. Also, for more ideas check out pizza cookbooks for the home, such as The Pizza Book by Evelyne Slomon, or The Great Chicago-Style Pizza Cookbook by Pat Bruno, Jr.
Once you get the recipe you want, convert it to large-batch size for your pizzeria mixer. You can do this by multiplying every ingredient in the recipe by a factor. To determine the factor, divide the total amount of flour in the large batch by that used in the test batch. For example, if your pizzeria batch size takes 25 lb of flour and your test batch uses 8 ounces (0.5 lb), that means the large batch is 50-times bigger than the test batch (25 ÷ 0.5 = 50). So to convert the test batch recipe to the large-batch recipe, you would multiply every ingredient in the test batch by 50.
In the case of teaspoon measurements, convert them to weights, if possible, for the large recipe. To do this, determine how many level teaspoons of an ingredient equals one ounce (weigh it out) and use that information to translate teaspoon measures into ounces. Sometimes it helps to know that 3 teaspoons (t) = 1 tablespoon (T).
Many pizzeria owners think that their dough and crust problems are caused by a faulty formula when, in fact, they’re caused by inconsistent procedure. So, by using the dough-making tips provided in this chapter, along with knowledge that you gleaned from testing, create a simple written procedure for making the new dough. If possible, have it neatly printed or typeset for easy reading. Laminating helps preserve it. Then require everyone in our dough-making staff to follow it, every time.
Recipe development requires baking test products. In addition, a baking test,
sometimes called a bake-off, is handy for evaluating a new brand of ingredient.
Here’s the guidelines for conducting a baking test. The basic procedure can be
used for any pizza component, including sauce, cheese, and topping.
First, make two batches with identical ingredients except for the one ingredient being tested. Change one ingredient only per test. If you make multiple changes simultaneously you won’t know how each ingredient affected the results. One of the batches is your current recipe and contains current ingredients—it’s called the control. It will be used for comparison purposes. The other batch contains the new ingredient—it’s called the test batch. Measure every ingredient using an accurate scale or volume measure (ex. measuring cup). The following things must be identical in both batches:
• Portion amounts
• Temperatures
• Mixing times
• Dough ball weights
• Proofing times and temperatures.
Second, prepare identical pizzas (with the only difference being the test ingredient). Use exact portions—weigh each one. Roll the pizzas the same and apply sauce and cheese uniformly. If you’re not testing toppings, it’s usually best to leave them off as their distribution and flavor is sometimes hard to control. Also they can interfere with evaluating the subtle flavors and aromas of the crust.
Third, bake the pizzas the same. The easiest way to accomplish this is by baking them simultaneously, next to each other.
Fourth, after baking place the pizzas on a rack or into pizza boxes and allow them to cool for several minutes. In other words, evaluate the pizzas under the same conditions that customers receive the pizzas. For carry-out and delivery pizza this means after the product has sat in a box for 10 to 15 minutes.
Fifth, analyze and compare the crusts. To do this, cut each pizza in half. Then turn one of the halves of each pizza upside-down. Then, using a razor blade or X-acto knife, slice each of the upside-down halves through the bottom of the crust. Finally, examine the cut edge. This will show you the crumb texture without it being smashed by a cutter or teeth marks.
Examine and compare the following things about each crust:
• Size and uniformity of air cells (grain)
• Height of the crust (volume)
• Crumb color (whitish, grayish, etc.)
• Crumb texture (tough, tender, dry, moist, gummy, etc.)
• Color of bottom crust (light, dark, uniform, etc.)
• Texture of bottom surface (soft, crispy, crunchy, leathery, etc.)
• Color of the collar (outer edge of crust)
• Texture of collar (soft, tough, dry, burnt, etc.)
• Crust aroma (best perceived at the collar)
• Flavor of the collar (with no sauce and cheese)
• Flavor in the middle (with sauce and cheese)
• Anything else about a crust that’s important to you.
If you’re doing a number of tests on various ingredients you should record results on paper, rating each of the above categories individually. If more than one person is involved, record individual ratings and then average them for each category. People should make their ratings before having discussion. One rating system is 1 to 5, with 5 being excellent, 4 good, 3 fair or acceptable, 2 slightly less than acceptable, and 1 awful or totally unacceptable.
When done, select the crust you like most and go with that recipe, or repeat the testing except use customers for the taste panel.
For
convenience, bakers refer to ingredient amounts in a dough formula as a percentage
of total flour weight. That means, regardless of how much flour a recipe calls
for, the flour amount is always considered to be 100 percent and every other ingredient
is referred to as a percentage thereof. For example, if a formula calls for 25
lb flour and 15 lb water, they would say that the formula consisted of 60 percent
water (15 ÷ 25 = .60 or 60%). They call this a baker’s percent. To further
illustrate, if a baker said “lower water by 5 percent,” this would mean that the
water portion should be reduced 5 percent of the weight of the flour portion called
for by the recipe.
Throughout this chapter and other chapters on dough, whenever we mention percentages we’re referring to baker’s percents. So keep in mind that these percents relate to a percent of the total flour weight in the dough formula, not to a percent of total dough weight.
This section discusses pizza dough recipes and contains links to sample formulas.
Each name suggests its main feature. We recommend that you view each formula as
a starting point for development, as opposed to a final recipe. Dozens of variations
can be made on each one. To help you we have shown baker’s percents. Where a blend
of flours is used the percents are based on total flour weight, not just
white flour. (For percent purposes, a cereal meal is treated as flour.)
BATCH SIZES. We list three batch sizes. One with a 25 lb flour portion, which can be used with a 60 qt planetary mixer or a 40/45 qt cutter-mixer. A second one with a 12-1/2 lb flour portion for a 30 qt planetary mixer or a 25 qt cutter-mixer. And a third one with a 16 oz flour portion for test batches. For a batch using 50 lb flour, double the portion amounts used for the recipe with 25 lb flour.
WATER PORTION. Bear in mind that the water portion is not a fixed amount. Vary it as needed depending on flour protein level and your preference for soft vs. stiff dough. The water portion in these recipes will make a soft dough. For stiffer dough, reduce the water. Many pizzerias use about 54 to 56 percent water for a basic lean dough, however others use less than that. Forty percent (40 percent) of flour weight is about as low as the water portion should go. For spinning or flipping dough, reduce it down to about 45 percent. When using any of the following recipes for retarded (i.e., refrigerated) dough, reduce the water portion by at least 2 percent, or by 8 oz per 25 lb of flour.
YEAST PORTION. We set the yeast portion at 1 percent but it’s variable as well. For example, when making retarded dough, use 0.25 percent active dry yeast, or 1 oz per 25 lb of flour, and adjust from there. In short, adjust the water and yeast portions to achieve the amount of rise and stiffness of dough that works best in your pizza-making system. In all recipes except one we specify regular active dry yeast (ADY). This is the slowest acting yeast. For that reason it’s usually the best for retarded dough. However, compressed and instant yeast may be substituted. To use compressed yeast, use twice as much as the ADY portion. For instant, use three-fourths as much as the ADY portion.
TYPE OF FLOUR. Most of the recipes specify high-gluten flour. For weaker dough and tenderer crust, substitute a lower protein flour. For example, when going from a flour of 13 percent protein to one of 11 percent protein, reduce the water portion by 3 percent. A few recipes call for a blend of flours. If this makes the dough too weak or crust too mushy, try adding 1 to 2 percent vital wheat gluten, which can be purchased as an additive.
An option not mentioned in the recipes is baking powder. To provide added oven spring, try adding up to 0.3 percent baking powder. This amounts to about 1/2 oz per 10 lb of flour. Baking powder tends to raise dough pH (or alkalinity) which can slow down yeast fermentation. So additional yeast may be needed. Baking powder is suggested mainly for fresh dough, not retarded.
Where a recipe calls for a teaspoon (t) measure, it should be level, not rounded. Use a straight edge to scrape it flat. To convert measurements into metric equivalents, see the chapter on Measurements and Conversions.
Follow the dough-making procedures described in the Dough-making Steps section, or follow the Sample Production Procedures given at the end of the chapter.
OPTIONAL MIXING METHOD. For simplicity we’ve recommended the straight dough mixing method. However the sponge method can be used on any recipe. To do it, mix the water, yeast, and 60 percent of the flour together to form a thick batter or slack dough. Allow it to ferment for 3 to 4 hours until doubled in volume. Then add the remaining ingredients and mix as usual. Be sure to rehydrate yeast properly. Some people think the sponge method makes a better-tasting product. You might want to test it to see what you think.
NOTE: In the Dough Recipies, a small (or lower case) t means teaspoon. A large (or capital) T means Tablespoon.
1. All-purpose Pizza Dough recipe
2. Fast-rising Pizza Dough recipe
3. Easy-to-sheet Pizza Dough recipe
4. High-browning Pizza Crust recipe
5. Lean 'n' Chewy Pizza Crust recipe
6. Rich 'n' Tender Pizza Crust recipe
7. Thin 'n' Crackery Pizza Crust (stiff dough) recipe
8. Chicago Deep-dish Pizza Crust recipe
9. Basic Neapolitan Pizza Crust recipe
10. Basic Sicilian Pizza Crust recipe
11. Whole Wheat Pizza Crust recipe
12. Three-grain Pizza Crust recipe
13. Higher-protein Pizza Crust recipe
14. Herb & Wine Pizza Crust recipe
15. Pepper-Cheese Pizza Crust recipe
17. Garlic & Butter Pizza Crust recipe
18. Itialian Accent Pizza Crust recipe
19. French Sour Dough Pizza Crust recipe
When properly configured from the right ingredients a traditional pizza includes
all the major food groups and is nutritionally wholesome. However, at any given
time there are at least a half dozen popular diets in the land. These diets determine
the eating patterns of many consumers. In recent years dietary experts have suggested
that, in general, Americans should consume a greater amount of lower-glycemic
foods and a lesser amount of higher-glycemic foods. Lower-glycemic foods include
protein foods, fiber-rich foods, and foods made of coarsely ground starches (e.g.,
stone ground flour). Higher-glycemic foods include sugar-rich foods and foods
made of finely ground starches (e.g., conventional finely-milled flour). The experts
continue to recommend that when including fat in a recipe, use one that’s higher
in mono-unsaturated fat and lower in poly-unsaturated and saturated fat. Olive
oil and canola (rapeseed) oil come closest to this prescription.
The following considerations can help create a “diet pizza” that fits the nutritional requirements of certain popular diets:
1. Use a high-fiber dough recipe for the crust. Using whole wheat flour in the recipe helps. Other ingredients can be added to increase fiber level, as well. For a “super-healthy crust” use a stone ground flour, as called for in the Diet-enhanced Crust formula above. However, stone ground flour may not always be available. Plus it tends to result in a heavy, dense cell structure which some pizza-eaters might find unappealing.
2. Keep sugar to a minimum in dough and sauce recipes—no more than one percent in each.
3. Keep oil and fat to a minimum—no more than three percent in dough, based on flour weight. Use little or none in the sauce.
4. When oil is used, use olive oil. If you want to incorporate olive flavor into a recipe, use virgin or extra virgin oil. If you don’t want olive flavor, use “extra light” olive oil.
5. For dough portions, use a 7 ounce dough ball for a 10-inch pizza, 10 ounce for a 12-inch pizza, 14 ounce for a 14-inch pizza, and 18 ounce for a 16-inch pizza. Yes, this is a thin-crust pizza.
6. For sauce portions, use whatever amount of tomato-based sauce gives the best flavor.
7. For cheese, use a 50:50 blend of low-moisture, part-skim mozzarella and no-fat mozzarella, or any other (blend of) cheese that has the same amount of protein and fat as this blend.
8. For cheese portions, use no more than 6 ounces for a 10-inch pizza, 8 ounces for a 12-inch pizza, 11 ounces, for a 14-inch pizza, and 14 ounces for a 16-inch pizza.
9. For meat toppings, use lean meats such as lean ham, chicken, and/or lean ground beef. Typical pepperoni and Italian sausage would not qualify, although it’s possible to create lean Italian sausage.
10. For veggie toppings, include as much or as little of the typical non-starchy pizza veggies as the customer requests—tomatoes, mushrooms, onions, and green peppers all qualify.
Many pizzerias use retarded (i.e., refrigerated) dough, sometimes called long-fermentation
dough. Some make it daily, refrigerate it for 24 hours, and use it the next day.
Others make it three to four times a week and use it over a 1 to 3 day period.
Any dough can be retarded but some formulas seem to work better than others. Generally
speaking, for best results use a high protein flour (12 to 14 percent protein
level) to give the dough ample strength to withstand prolonged storage. Probably
the best flour for retarded dough would be that which contains no malted barley
or other amylase-enzyme ingredient. However, it may be hard to find, as most all
flour contains malted barley or similar additive. Some experts recommend including
2 to 3 percent sugar in the formula to provide an ample supply of yeast food.
However, testing by the author shows that it might not be necessary.
Rehydrate the yeast for 10 minutes at proper temperature to provide full dispersion and rehydration prior to mixing. For mixing, use cold water, about 55 degrees F. Dough coming from the mixer should be between 75 to 80 degrees. Since slow-starting fermentation is usually desirable, some experts say that the best yeast to use is regular active dry (ADY) because it’s the slowest acting. However, other types of yeast will work, too.
When switching from a fresh-dough
to retarded dough system, sometimes the water portion must be reduced a couple
percent because dough becomes tackier during extended fermentation. In addition,
when using any of the above recipes for retarded dough, reduce the water portion
by at least 2 percent, or by 8 oz per 25 lb of flour. For example, here’s
the All-purpose Dough formula modified for a retarded dough system.
All-purpose Pizza Dough for Retarding | ||||
| Ingredients | % | Full Batch | Half Batch | Test Batch |
| High-gluten Flour |
100 | 25 lb | 12 lb 8 oz | 16 oz |
| Water | 56 | 14 lb | 7 lb | 9 oz |
| Active Dry Yeast | .25 | 1 oz | 1/2 oz | 5/8 t |
| Sugar | 1 | 4 oz | 2 oz | 1-1/8 t |
| Salt | 2 | 8 oz | 4 oz | 1-5/8 t |
| Oil | 3 | |||